The return of tailored suits has been making its rounds the last few years. We can’t tell you how excited we are to see well groomed dapper gentleman on the streets. If you are hesitant about jumping straight into a custom designed and tailored suit think about starting with an off the rack purchase and taking it to the tailor. Get to know what looks good on your body type before you start fretting about picking suit fabrics, colors, lapels, vents and more. Below are some fundamental tips for your next suit purchase. You’re welcome in advance!
- If you don’t already have the basics in your closet you should start with black, dark grey or dark blues. These colors can be used for work, weddings, and dinners.
- Your initial purchase from the department store will likely be a straight to medium slim cut suit. Take the suit to your tailor and have him alter in the following:
- A light shoulder pad will create posture, broader shoulders, and the upper body V shape. There should be no pulling, creasing, or bulking at the shoulder; it should always lie flat.
- A proper armhole should not be too large or too small. Try the “hug” test. If you hug the air, your armhole should be grazing underneath your arm. It should not be tight nor should you not feel it at all.
- This is at your discretion. Try pulling some images from men’s magazines or websites for inspiration on just how tailored you want your waist to come in. A little insight into cuts: American cut is straight down the sides of the torso. British cut is slightly taken in at the waist. Italian (European) is a tapered waist, completely slim cut. Keep your body frame in mind when selecting your cut.
- Jacket Closure. Your jacket should close flat. There should be just be no more than 2 fingers worth of space between the jacket button and your shirt.
- Jacket Collar. The back of the jacket should lay flat against your neck and back. If there is a large gap between the neck and the collar or bulking underneath the collar, this should be taken in.
- Jacket Sleeve Length. The length of the sleeve of the jacket should come down to the large bone on the wrist to allow for ½” of the shirt cuff to be seen.
- Jacket Length. The length of your jacket should be determined by the length of your arms. Your fingers should naturally curve at the edge of your jacket. The hem of the jacket should fall close to the line where the palm meets your fingers. If the palm of your hand extends past your jacket, it is too long.
- Pant Inseam or The Seat. Your inseam should not sag or pull but rather lightly cup you.
- Pant Length. One break at your hem is appropriate.
When in doubt remember everything should lie flat. If there is any pulling, sagging, bucking or bulking it should be tailored.